Sacai Fall 2023 Menswear

Sacai Fall 2023 Menswear

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The existential, 169-minute sci-fi movie Interstellar is a slow burn that eventually becomes enthralling: by the finale it’s borderline mind-altering. But boy, does it take time to get going. So it was kind of appropriate that this Interstellar-inspired Sacai collection—one of Chitose Abe’s most fascinating menswear (plus pre) missions ever—also took way too long to take off. This was because a certain celebrity fashion tourist was late (again). The show was held for 45 minutes, and still he didn’t arrive. Disrespect. Why do show producers put up with this and steal everyone else’s time?

At last, the collection was a go. The seasonal conceit of Interstellar and the ongoing Sacai subjects of hybridization and transformation meshed finely. Conceit-wise, there seemed three main references to the movie; a Murph’s bookcase print and the morse code/anomaly print that featured Cooper’s porch line “it was never meant to die here” were both fun fan references. However it was the collaborative pieces produced with Carhartt, Cooper’s chore jacket supplier of choice, that really took you to another dimension. Following the European-license arm of the American workwear staple’s excellent daisy-age Marni collab, this was its second home run of the season. Look 32 was a straight up cameo for Cooper, albeit with the chore split with side-vents—a through-collection theme in outerwear—and with a protruding khaki underlayer. Extra dimensions were added to oversized “fleeces,” and some amazing MA1 bombers with skirts strapped up against the model’s shoulders—these could be loosened to create longer-form (even if we’d been here long enough) outerwear. They were so good.

The inky blackness of space inflected a Catholically black series of looks whose severity contrasted with the disruption to come. The transformation was signaled by a moonrise of multi-color degradé layers in knits that gradually supplanted the blackness and signaled the experimentation ahead. Arguably that experimentation’s high point was the series of looks created with Moncler—an old co-creator with whom Sacai is reuniting for its 70th anniversary—that we saw close to the end. These melded piumino outerwear with tailoring, accessories and skirts to create a sort of modular macro-universe of dress within each look: single pieces containing a myriad of disassemble-able elements. They came in pieces for all mankind.

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